(9): CMMN SWDN, (10): Asger Juel Larsen, (11): Lazoschmidl and (12): Namacheko
Expertly crafted contemporary design fusing sartorial elegance with youthful edge and celebrated enfant terrible, bringing Copenhagen a slice of East London edge. Explicit and gender-fluid menswear bringing sexy back and the Kurdish-Swedish duo using luxurious materials to set a personal tone. Four more names added to our list of Scandinavia’s most exciting new menswear brands.
(9) CMMN SWDN
Expertly crafted contemporary design fusing sartorial elegance with youthful edge
London, United Kingdom — Their meticulous attention to detail and a confident use of colour and pattern set Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund apart from the majority of Swedish brands. The couple, who met while both studying at Central Saint Martins, cut their teeth working for Wooyoungmi and Kanye West before founding their own brand in 2012 in Malmö, Sweden. Their collections, including both modern staples and extraordinary statement pieces inspired by sartorial tailoring and youth subcultures, consistently feature materials and finishes of international luxury standards. Today, the married couple have moved their design studio into East London from where they continue to build an impressive list of high-end stockists including Mr Porter, Ssense, Beams.
(10) Asger Juel Larsen
Celebrated enfant terrible, bringing Copenhagen a slice of East London edge.
Copenhagen, Denmark — While Asger Juel Larsen might just be a bit too established to truly fit this list, we thought it would be remiss of us not mention this Danish super-talent as someone to still keep your eyes on. After graduating as top of his class from Central Saint Martins (yes, many Scandinavian designers have indeed studied in London) Asger’s collections are heavily influenced by his time as part of East London’s underground scene. His dramatic shows, built on themes of goth, punk and a slice of exquisite tailoring, he has made him an international name as the enfant terrible of Danish menswear. Rather tragically, Asgers business was subject to a major setback in 2016 when a fire destroyed his studio and archives. Though given his undeniable talent and highly anticipated comeback, we’re sure this phoenix will rise from the ashes. After all, his reaction to the incident prompted him to ingeniously create tees printed with flames and the word ’leftovers’.
Explicit and gender-fluid menswear bringing sexy back.
Stockholm, Sweden / Frankfurt, Germany — Patent leather speedos, see-through chiffon blouses and skin-tight crop tops might not sound like something you’d find from a menswear brand, even less so a Scandinavian one. The work of Josef Lazo and Andreas Schmidl is indeed anything but conventional; and the Stockholm – Frankfurt based duo continuously explores themes such as gender-fluid sexuality, homoeroticism and hedonism. After merely two seasons of stand-alone shows, the couple-designer duo are quickly establishing themselves as one of the most anticipated and disruptive shows on the Stockholm fashion week schedule. As they’re investigating ways to scale their production from made-to-order into ready-to-wear; we can’t wait to see more of the fun, upbeat sexiness these promising talents have to offer.
The Kurdish-Swedish duo using luxurious materials to set a personal tone.
Presented in the Galerie Joseph Tang in Marais, Paris; the siblings Dilan and Lezan Lurr behind Namacheko showed their debut 38-piece collection with musings of their past. Born in Kirkuk, in the Kurdish part of Iraq, their family moved to Sweden when the designers were children and their presented work is an emotional and honest reflection on their identity, split between these two vastly different countries. As captivating as the narrative behind their work is, the garments also speak beautifully for themselves. Using the same Belgian manufacturer as Raf Simons, the siblings showcase a fine attention to detail using luxurious materials like Joshua Ellis cashmere and silk from Taroni and Bucol. For their second outing, the Lurr siblings staged a well-received runway presentation on the Paris Fashion Week calendar that brought them coverage in media such as WWD, Hypebeast and Vogue. Surely, these designers have a momentum that promises a bright future.CMMN SWDNNamachekoLazoschmidlAsger Juel Larsen