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MEN'S FASHION MONTH REPORT

”We created raincoats with an urban Wall Street vibe with super tailored suits and blend it with the west coast attitude which is more aggressive”

Scandinavian MAN’s Fashion Editor met J.Lindeberg’s creative director after the Spring/Summer 2019 show for more about the collection and also shares his own view about it.

12082018
Words Robin Douglas Westling

Tap 1, Copenhagen.

Last season (AW18) the self-taught German designer Jens Werner took over as J.Lindeberg’s new creative director. Werner started his career in the Style office at Adidas with a focus on Y-3, followed by work with Adidas’ recently launched collaborations with top designers. His latest project, before J.Lindeberg, was at Tory Burch where he worked as Design Director for Tory Burch’s sport line Tory Sport.

For J.Lindeberg Werner was very clear with what his vision for the brand was, he wanted to blend all of the brand's categories: ready-to-wear, golf, ski and sports, to one unit. The result? A new look and perspective of the iconic Swedish fashion brand, one that is more contemporary and aesthetically pure.

For Spring/Summer 19 Werner took inspiration from America and thoughts on the "American dream" in terms of what it stands for, which according to Werner is that everything is possible. The collection "surf.america", according to J.Lindeberg’s press release, reflects the inspiration for this season both in the design and in the mindset.

Backstage after the show, Werner explains for Scandinavian MAN that this collection was the first one he really put his own aesthetic to the brand, and why the focus on America was such a huge influence on his inspirations:

– It was about America right now because it is a huge market and a huge potential so I wanted to play with the American lifestyle aesthetic. In the beginning, it was about an east coast attitude. With New York City in mind, we created raincoats with an urban, wall-street vibe with super tailored suits and blend it with the west coast attitude who is more aggressive with surfers and skaters with a more relaxed lifestyle.

Some of the models walking the runway had skateboards in their hands (J.Lindebergs own, Ed's note) while they wore relaxed tailored suits in nylon. The coats (also many in nylon) had a boxy and straight silhouette that reminded me of some of the last season's Raf Simons coats, the tailoring in focus, looks styled with boxy cotton and nylon blazers with tight, longer shorts – a look J.Lindeberg really appeared well in. Other than that Werner really "hotted" up the skiwear with bigger silhouettes in a bright yellow color with big logos. The thoughts on comfort and function were clear in the silhouette and the accessories.

Werner has a nice thought with making J.Lindeberg a cool, relevant brand, but I’m missing his own identity as a fashion designer. It is clear that his inspirations come from contemporary designers like Demna Gvasalia, Samuel Ross, Raf Simons and Virgil Abloh: white shirts with printed photo collages, oversized skiing jackets, and ugly sneakers, does it sound familiar? I hope next season shows more of who Werner is and less of what he wants to be.