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CPHFW

This fashion expert says it’s time to speak about the Scandi man

With fashion weeks, a new approach is coming, according to the expert Christopher Morency, Editor at Large at Highsnobiety. We talk about the week in Copenhagen and how the Scandinavians do it. Which brings us to the question: should we really stay within the geographical boarders to bring success?

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Words by Olivia Palmqvist Photography Lucas Frisk Bergqvist

Every year, Christopher Morency is traveling to multiple fashion weeks. With a past at The Business of Fashion, and now as the editor at large at Highsnobiety, he is seen as one of the most influential young editors in the fashion industry. Here, he brings us an analysis of the current fashion week situation, in Scandinavia and beyond.

— Copenhagen Fashion Week in my mind is the most influential fashion week in Europe outside of Paris, London and Milan. Its approach to fashion is a lot more commercial, appealing to the contemporary market more than in other cities. It's a smart niche the week has carved out, as too often, a large consumer base is left untapped by luxury houses who target a select few. It means you're seeing clothing that the masses can actually buy, which is just as important as attending other fashion weeks that are designed to inspire.

How would you describe Copenhagen Fashion Week?

— Copenhagen Fashion Week always has a great energy. It's a lot more consumer and influencer facing than other weeks, but for the city it works. It's created its own distinct eco-system where the relationship with brands and influencers is a lot closer than you see in other cities around the world. A seems that a lot more people support homegrown brands here. I need to also applaud CEO Cecilie Thorsmarks' drive towards a more eco-responsible fashion week. Making that priority number one.

Stockholm Fashion Week just turned down, what are your thoughts about that?

— Sweden has great design talent. Our Legacy, Acne Studios, Eytys, Polar Skate Co and Très Bien are all highly influential in their own spaces. But none show during Stockholm Fashion Week and instead have opted to other fashion weeks around the world or skipped fashion shows all together. The talent is there, but Swedish brands have always been very outward looking, as real business scale is reached oversees. I understand why it's hard for Stockholm Fashion Week get the ball rolling again with the next generation as that takes time. With Copenhagen Fashion Week becoming a bigger entity, it's become even more difficult to attract brands, buyers and press and create excitement at large.

How would you define the Scandinavian fashion nowadays?

— Scandinavian fashion has always been known for its womenswear especially. People think of brands like Ganni, Stine Goya, Cecilie Bahnsen and Filippa K. Half of it is ultra minimal and the other half is maximalist and colorful. It's a story that's been written too often. What we're really seeing now, is a focus on menswear and those brands gaining traction. It's finally time to speak about the Scandi man internationally as well.'

As you say, we can see a broaden interest in menswear. What Scandinavian brands do you consider the most interesting and why?

— Next to Acne, Our Legacy and Eytys, I see Soulland having the most success. It just showed its third footwear collaboration with Nike SB, which has gotten a lot of people excited come November. Its foray into womenswear has legs to stand on as well. Then there's a new label called Sunflower which we'll be hearing a lot more about in the future. (Di)vision by Simon Wick is about to be big as well.

What are your top happenings coming up during the Copenhagen fashion week?

— Sunflower and Cecilie Bahnsen were the best shows so far. Looking forward to Saks Potts.

How do you think the future of fashion weeks in Scandinavia will evolve?

— I hope there will be one main Scandinavian fashion week. With Copenhagen, we already see a lot of other Nordic brands from Norway, Sweden and Finland showing. If Copenhagen wants to make the impact that it certainly can, it needs to cement itself as the market leader in Scandinavian fashion. I don't think a fragmented approach to different fashion weeks works at a time when press and buyers could just be doing one.