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”The idea about the collection started out when I was stuck in three different airports”
We speak to Henrik Vibskov after his SS20 show in Paris with a collection that shows us a crystal clear vision, covering perspectives in all ways — in the feeling of being stuck.
While showcasing a grand interactive art installation, models were walking the runway with jacquards, multiple patterns, knitted garments and fringy vibrant fabrics. During the pattern making, parts have been stuck in opposite positions than usual, open shoulder parts are created where the silhouettes of the pattern has been moved and small patch labels are keeping sleeves together.
— The idea about the collection started out when I was stuck in three different airports, says Vibskov after the show. There was pilot strikes and I was in total on six different flights. My team was too, so I thought that this could be our theme. To be stuck. Not only in a negative perspective, also in a positive sense. There are a lot of things that are stuck — from the smallest daily things to other scenarios like how we treat animals and how we use plastic. Lobsters are sometimes with their claws tied together and that has a part of the pattern in the collection. Other prints are sardines in a box and barbeque sticks where you stuck something on. From things with a bit of vegan-power to other world-scenarios, all connected to the theme.
How do you translate it into the garments?
— We worked a lot with air in theme which we translated in the garments. Some woven and knitted pieces are made with fish that are stuck, some of the shapes are made with extra pads or sports-tape to replate the muscles. We also used a lot of elastic materials.
90% of your production is sustainable, what are your thoughts about sustainability?
— The pre-capsule collection we made was 100% sustainable. We always aim for that. Now we use recycled polyester and organic fabrics. Still, sustainability is about not consuming, and therefore nothing we do can be truly sustainable. Twenty years ago when I graduated at Saint Martins the focus was the shaping, tailoring and craftsmanship. Today we focus more on materials and the treatment, which is a challenge.
What now? What are your future plans?
— I have one small project ongoing, but the only plan now is my coming holiday. The last two-three months have been tough. Sometimes when you name something, like being stuck - you get stuck. These days I have lost my computer and my bag and I forgot the luggage in Copenhagen. Now I am fragile, and the only focus is holiday. Let’s see about the future projects, maybe I will just stay for a long holiday while someone else is working on my computer. That is the plan.