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Style, innovation & equality

Shirtmaking heritage

Swedish shirtmaker Stenströms is aiming for a softer touch and younger audience with a SS19 lookbook set in Florence, Tuscany.

Words by Konrad Olsson

We all sometimes feel the need to dream ourselves away to a warmer day and a more beautiful setting. Few places match the natural beauty of Florence and the surrounding Tuscan landscape and this is something that Stenströms takes to heart in their upcoming lookbook for SS19.

— Florence is a fantastic city, and there are so many fantastic settings to shoot in. We thought it was a perfect match with the Stenströms brand, says creative director, Peter Jüriado.

— We have a consumer that likes to enjoy life and experience new things, and even though we are not a lifestyle company, we’d like to inspire our consumers with our shoots.

People familiar with Stenströms aesthetic will recognise in the bearded model, who has become the face of the brand for the last few seasons, but there is also a new face emerging, as the brand itself is changing. In a move to make sure Stenströms ‘won’t stand still’ and to reach both the older and younger consumer, the upcoming collection shows a clear move towards bolder patterns and more colour, and Jürido makes the case for a more casual way to wear a shirt.

— There is a great interest in dressing in a different way. When I started at Stenströms, 20 years ago, more or less everybody was wearing a suit and we delivered the typical business shirt. Today, everything has changed. As a business man, you are allowed another look. Whether it’s wearing denim or bowling collars or dressed up polo shirts. There are also new cuts.

So, there is a greater interest in being more comfortable?

— Absolutely. I’ve always been an advocate for a more comfortable way of wearing a shirt. These things are supposed to make you feel good. I think the Italians have showed us how to do it with their unconstructed jackets and drawstring dress-pants. That’s an acceptable look today.

How does this manifest itself in the collection?

— We have three collections, and the one called Sophisticated Sport is more informal and easier to combine with sneakers and jeans.

What else is going on in the upcoming SS19 collection?

— For the first time in a while we see a lot of colour. I really feel we need stronger accent colours. It showed in the women’s collection for SS18, but now it’s coming to men’s.

Stenströms is Sweden’s oldest shirtmaker, founded in 1899, and in the beginning of the 20th century they employed over 140 seam- stresses in their home town Helsingborg. Today, the company’s factory resides in Estonia, but the attention to craftsmanship and detail remains the same, even as their offering expands into other product categories, like knitwear and tailoring.

— It’s very important for us to show how to wear our shirts and for the presentation, we needed a few jackets. And of course, I wanted to do a jacket the way I like it – very soft. We work with a very soft construction, with more or less no interlining in the jackets. There are so many great companies that do fantastic suits and jackets. We do something in between. It’s kind of a shirt jacket.

What does Pitti Uomo mean to you?

— Pitti is a great way to connect with the industry. It is the best place in the world to hang out with the people that you want to see.

What are you wearing for this edition of Pitti?

— I will go for linen jackets and shirts. Since it can do up to 40 degrees Celsius, I feel no need to put on a tie.