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Style, innovation & equality

Schnayderman’s expands through a careful selection of wardrobe essentials

”Moving towards a full collection has been an effortless progression of our brand”, says Co-founder Joel Urwitz about this fall’s line extension.

Words: Johan Magnusson

The Stockholm-based brand is built on a foundation of shirts – with classic fabrics and cuts, that is amplified with an extensive selection of strong, contemporary seasonal expressions.

— Our ambition is to create a world that enhances, evolves and compliments the shirt through our selection of wardrobe essentials, says Urwitz.

For this fall, you include knits, jackets and more in your collection and go almost full-range. How come?

— Moving towards a full collection has been an effortless progression of our brand. It grew from a combination of customer wanting a wider selection of clothing from us and an urge of being able to communicate the Schnayderman’s look beyond just shirts. Quite naturally that meant to translate our aesthetic to other categories such as pants and shorts in the same fabrics as our overshirts. To complete the ”wardrobe” we extend into knitwear and jersey with the same attention to quality and fabrication as our shirts and of course jackets and coats to complete the look, says Urwitz.

Tell us about the inspiration and story behind FW19.

— The collection is called ”Teenage” and is heavily referencing the 90’s, something that is very close to heart for us as we grew up during that time period, says Creative Director Hampus Bernhoff. ”Becoming of age” is a central theme which led to us to the idea of growing into bigger silhouettes and attracted us to oversized coats, jackets and shirts. This is also the time when you muster into the army which lead us to utility details and camo prints. We also reworked 90’s sticker trading cards that we used to collect together with illustrator Mia Nilsson that appear in the collection as woven patches on sweatshirts and plastisol prints on T-shirts.

Which pieces are your favourites?

— Our Oversized Army jacket is a bold one in terms of volume and size but can be adjustable so it becomes a wearable statement piece. It is made out of a coated Italian cotton nylon fabric with 4 bellow pockets, big sleeve patches and adjustable cuffs, says Bernhoff. He adds:

— Our knitwear is also worth pointing out — Italian manufactured cashmere and mohair blends that are circular knitted, meaning each garment is engineered without any seams which is a technique that is commonly used for producing athletic wear but not so often for heavier knits. The fit and feel of these garments are therefore much better.

How do you work with the fabrics?

— Since our all our manufacturing is in Europe we source 95% of our fabrics in Europe as part of our work to minimize our carbon footprint, says Joel Urwitz. Working with fabrics is central in our design process as we never compose on quality. We tend to look for interesting textures and quite often work closely together with the fabric mills to develop fabrics that have the right weight, handfeel and quality. In our shirting we explore many drapy materials such as viscose, tencel and silk mixes as an option to our classic poplin, twills and oxfords. We develop all our prints ourselves here in the studio.

What else do you have coming?

— Except for developing our collections we are working on a couple of interesting co-labs that will be launched between the seasons throughout the year.

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