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CPHFW

Pushing boundaries

Danish Soulland returned on the official Copenhagen Fashion Week schedule after a 5 years break. In the meanwhile, the focus has been to build a strong organization, identity, and retailer network. For SS20, they are back with double stamina — launching their first womenswear line.

15082019
Words: Olivia Palmqvist Photography: Lucas Frisk Bergqvist

Co-founder Jacob Kampp Berliner grew up in Aarhus, Denmark’s second city. Later, when moving to Copenhagen, he had no idea it also meant moving into the fashion industry. The city’s nightlife, skateboarding, and graffiti swept him under his feet. Through the nightlife enthusiasm, he met Silas Adler, a new friend and — soon to be — career companion. In 2006 they decided to start Soulland, a world created by two young creatives, designing reflections of their private life.

— The Soulland we have today is rooted in the Soulland we have been building since 2010, he says. It is, though, always a constant development. Being back on the official schedule and launching our first womenswear line feels really good!

What do you think of Copenhagen Fashion Week and its influence in Scandinavia?

— It’s strong, especially with the fall of both Oslo Runway and Stockholm Fashion Week. I see Copenhagen as one clear destination for all, it’s good for the whole of Scandinavia, to use all energy in one platform. With a new green focus I believe there’s potential for Copenhagen Fashion Week to be the week that pushes Scandinavian fashion, design, and sustainability forward.

What was your inspiration for the SS20 collection?

— We work with one unified inspiration for both mens- and womenswear. The inspiration started with a field studio in pedestrians and the act of walking. It is a beauty in moving from A to B, and in this dynamic place between two destinations, there’s a freedom to move in different directions.

What are your key fabrics?

— Maybe unknown for many, we have always had a strong love for French and Italian fabrics. We spend a lot of time developing our own fabrics, and for SS20 you can see more tech-fabrics, signature silk pieces, and many upcycled or recycled materials.

Following you on social media, there are always a bunch of special projects in the making. What do you have coming?

— Plenty! As launched at the show, we are dropping our fifth collab with Nike SB later this year. Besides that, we have collaborations with Bodega Rose, Danish knitwear icon Lærke Bagger, Playboy, the fantastic Swedish artist Malin Gabriella Nordin, and André Saraiva — a charity project supporting the Sea Shepard. In October, we have our release on a small drop of shirts made from left-over fabrics from our shirt production.

What are your future plans?

— We are working hard on our sustainability projects, which involves all aspects of the company such as transport, packing, and products. Since the launch of AW19 we are at approximately 65% of our full collection made from certified organic cotton, recycled polyester, and up-cycled knit. This is a journey we spend time on everyday. We want to learn, develop, and make Soulland as green as possible, says Kampp Berliner, continuing,

— Silas and I want Soulland to push boundaries for what fashion can be and continue a crossover to other lands such as music, art, and food. In the end it’s about pushing ourselves and our team everyday to learn and evolve.