Acne Studios used artificial intelligence to create ”faulty” looks for their 2020 Fall/Winter collection
The progressive collection took inspiration from a reality distorted computer.
The Swedish designer brand took help from generative artist Robbie Barratt who usually writes ”neural networks”, a type of algorithm that is set to recognise patterns. Thousands of classic Acne Studios looks and designs were fed into different neural networks, often intentionally incorrectly meant to confuse the machine.
The result was AI interpretations of different looks that didn’t exist. The new ”faulty” looks were then taken as design starting points that resulted in bold clothing approaches.
A slub cotton polo shirt was made without buttons and purposefully not risen back hem line, since the neural network didn’t understand buttons.
Nonetheless, the collection still oozed of traditional Acne Studios. Most designs were minimalistic in their muted color schemes, and a majority of the trousers followed a boot-cut silhouette that we know the brand for. Also, the quilted sneakers felt very functional and reality rooted.
Other designs were coats and jackets with curved cutaways at the front, and a specific tailored coat had its fastenings on the site of the piece — a result of the machines’ interpretation of earlier images of opened jackets and coats.
— It is amazing to see that Artificial Intelligence can be freeing as a creative tool. I wanted the collection to be alive with new possibilities for how we wear clothes, while also being grounded in strange reality, says Jonny Johansson, Creative Director of Acne Studios.
But not everyone was equally impressed. Luke Leitch, Vouge, wrote:
”On the evidence of the first look especially and much of the first section in general, AI is really, really poor at clothes design—unless its design is to embarrass man to death, in which case it is quite brilliant.”
The show itself took place in a very clinically stripped down runway under the Louvre, probably not designed by an AI machine but rather by the usual Acne Studio creatives. A neutral big white wall separated the Women’s show from the Men’s, with a calm reflective floor that helped the ceiling mirrors to showcase the looks from all angles.Acne StudiosParis Fashion WeekJonny JohanssonLuke LeitchVogue