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FASHION MONTH REPORT

A more fragile Acne Studios man

Creative Director Jonny Johansson has developed a new, more bohemian look for the Acne Studios man, who has his feet on the ground, living a fluid life between the city and nature. The SS20 collection is more feminine than any show from Acne Studios Men’s before, our Fashion Director reports from Paris. — I think it is about the confidence to be able to do it, says Johansson.

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Words Robin Douglas Westling Photography Jasmine Storch

Sweden’s biggest export in terms of high-end fashion showed their SS20 Men’s collection at Maison de la Radio, the headquarters of Radio France, located near the Eiffel tower in the 16th arrondissement of Paris. A light venue with big windows, covered by a beige wall-to-wall carpet which created a nice light in the light hall of the radio headquarter.

The new collection was a divine development from its previous (AW19) show where the outdoor and utility references were in focus. From my eye, this is a much more concrete aesthetic and the collection was well-thought and well looking.

— I was imagining an art student in their way to university, says Johansson post-show.

He has lived next to a campus for a while, seeing these young people on their bicycles on their way to school.

— I got inspired by when the kids from school are becoming professionals, the way they put together their clothes, an architectural kind of way.

The show included fragile boys who walked the runway wearing light transparent palette shirts with lace details, tie blouses with big black eye-lashes, blended with 60s/70s inspired tailoring and garments woven in scarlet with fringing. The secret thing with this collection is that you need to get closer to understand the craft behind it, just like you need to get to know a person, without judgement from distance. When you get closer you see unfinished hand-painted paintings of horses and landscape, tiny fabric nip in jackets and special woven knits. The collection was more feminine than any show from Acne Studios Men’s before. According to Johansson, the feminine elements is a weakness he’s always had:

— I think it is about the confidence to be able to do it, he says.