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8 things not to miss at Pitti Uomo 97
We give you our curated highlights for the world’s leading men’s fashion event in Florence this week.
Back to the wild
As a tribute to the untouched wilderness of Sarek National Park in northern Sweden, Tretorn launches the Sarek collection. A collaboration with Nigel Cabourn — the second one with the first one being for SS20 — is part of the collection where one key piece is the Sarek Parka. It’s a high-quality winter jacket for cold days, with many robust details. The jacket is made of the brand’s own developed material Ocean-Shell — made of recycled PET bottles picked from the oceans outside Taiwan. It has a three-layer construction with insulation, making it a warm and waterproof jacket with high breathability.
— The inspiration comes from vintage expedition and hiking jackets, which are strongly connected to our hiking Sarek heritage. The attention to detail, the durable high-quality material and the sustainable construction makes this a perfect Tretorn piece that is true to both the brand and our heritage, tells Johanna Gartmyr, Lead Designer Apparel.
Tretorn’s Sarek Parka. Pitti Uomo section: I Play
”We are determined to be one of the game-changers”
Danish sustainable innovation brand KnowledgeCotton Apparel honors a proud heritage, where exploring and caring for the surrounding nature is an essential part of the Nordic lifestyle. When they now return to Pitti, their innovative AW 2020 collection offers a true to nature experience.
The Nordic Legacy range is a brand new set of outdoor garments inspired by the ever-changing weather facing the Nordic outback. A careful choice of eco-friendly, proven functional fabrics that offer genuine, long lasting comfort. Hardwearing, windproof, breathable and durably water repellent, for conscious active people who want to get closer to nature. It features waxed jackets, trekking pants, over shirts, and urban outdoor pieces.
The line comes with nature’s own protection — DWR Wax Coating. It’s highly functional and lets the wearer adapt the shell garments to various activities and weather conditions. Just apply the coating on areas that need extra protection from wind and rain. More wax will increase weather protection while less wax makes the garment cooler and more breathable. Natural, non toxic and no chemical additives or harmful substances.
Even though KnowledgeCotton Apparel has a long history of pursuing sustainability issues in the fashion industry, it is only now that the social and environmental issues are really starting to have an impact on consumer behavior.
— We are aware that only the brands that can satisfactorily meet the new expectations will be relevant tomorrow. And we are determined to be one of the game-changers. Innovation, responsibility and transparency are our keys to success, says Mads Mørup, founder & CEO.
Section: Scandinavian Manifesto
Sophisticated Italian fashion meets classic British by Stenströms
The casual feel runs as a consistent thread throughout the shirtmaker’s new collection. The one-piece collar is shown in different shirts, such as the flannel, that can be worn casually as well as dressed-up with a fine blazer and pocket square. The line is split into two distinct themes, where the first is a more classic autumnal look with softer, more luxurious colour tones, including greens, burnt orange, browns and blues. The other one is all about harmony, still with luxurious neutrals with soft tones such as beige, white and grey coming into the mix.
Location: Padiglione Centrale
Rue De Tokyo x Kleman
After spending a lot of time searching for the right collaboration partners, Copenhagen-based Rue De Tokyo found French shoe brand Kleman. A perfect fit for founder and shoe lover David Andersson Sahlin.
— They have a long history but a young and fresh mind, he says. I started to discuss a possible collaboration together with Alexandre Cleon, who is a part of the family who founded the company. They have their own factory and produce their shoes in France (where they also make the shoes for the French firefighters and police), which made the collaboration even more perfect. Partly since we put a very high focus on the production process and also because we find the inspiration in the French and Japanese history.
Tell us about the collab shoe.
— We looked through the product range and decided to focus on their Padror silhouette in two versions, one more feminine and one unisex, where the colourways took inspiration from our AW20 collection. Fun, yet wearable, says Andersson Sahlin.
The shoes debut at Scandinavian Manifesto during Pitti Uomo and will reach stores in August.
Fiskars by Maria Korkeila
World-renowned Fiskars, founded in 1649, are one of the leading gardening and cookware brands. At Pitti this week they enter the fashion industry with a collection ”designed for urban gardeners” by Maria Korkeila, to be presented in Florence tomorrow night. Educated at Aalto University, finalist of Festival international de Mode et de Photographie à Hyères and winner of Chiapparelli prize in 2017, Korkeila now works as a fashion and textile designer in Paris and Helsinki.
Contemporary fashion and functionality go hand-in-hand in the unisex workwear-meets-streetwear capsule, featuring modern garden wear staples rooted in Fiskars’ Nordic design heritage. The 11 styles ranges from modular clothing to multi-functional bags and accessories. The versatile pieces include a jacket with stab-proof pockets and a detachable hem, hood and sleeves, and a tool belt that can be converted into a modern waist bag, giving a whole new meaning to urban garden wear. Crafted from organic and recycled materials and vegan leather, the collection showcases bold, nature-inspired prints in a down-to-earth colour scheme.
— All Fiskars products are modern by way of tradition, like the iconic orange-handled scissors. This is the design DNA I wanted to bring into the capsule collection as well, says Korkeila.
— As with all our design, the basis of the collection is to provide innovative and purposefully designed products that empower everyday creativity, says comments Marika Orkamo, SVP, Brand and Marketing at Fiskars.
Rose fibre fabrics by ADNYM ATELIER
The Swedish premium fashion brand’s AW20, ”202 - ANTI EXCESS”, is built on classic key garments such as trenchcoats and jackets transformed and slightly twisted to modern versions. Design details include asymmetrical designs such as ”cut and sew”, colour patterns, cut off garments, contrast stitches and patchworks, while the fabrics ranges from wool blends and premium leather to organic rose fibres.
ADNYM ATELIER is exhibiting at Scandinavian Manifesto.
A heavier Project TWLV
Scandinavia’s leading boot brand adds a new, heavier sole and a new last to their strong Cordovan, Suede and Reverse Cordovan offering.
Project TWLV’s stand is located at Arena Strozzi
The modern beat
The origin of the word ”jazz” has resulted in considerable research, and its history is well documented. It is believed to be related to ”jasm”, a slang term dating back to 1860 meaning ”pep” or ”energy”. Jazz is often characterized by the product of interaction and collaboration, placing less value on the contribution of the composer. The jazz performer interprets a tune in individual ways, never playing the same composition twice. Jazz is the purest expression of democracy; music built on individualism and compromise, independence and cooperation.
The jazz scene is full of behind-the-scenes stories and great and colorful personal portraits and performances from which Oscar Jacobson picks its general inspiration for Autumn/Winter -20. Whenever jazz musicians get together, you can be sure that sooner or later they’ll get around to swapping smoke hazed late night stories. Think: Bill Evans, William Claxton, Benjamin Clementine, Blue Note Records, and Miles Davis.
Oscar Jacobson AW20. Their location: Costruzioni Lorenesi