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Men's Fashion Month Report

J.Lindeberg Autumn/Winter 2018 show at The Lab in Copenhagen

The Swedish brand debuting at Copenhagen Fashion Week with recently appointed Creative Director Jens Werner taking its sport-fashion roots into the next chapter, by uniting all product categories for men, from fashion and active to ski and golf, in one creative direction.

Photography Helle Moos

First of all, Jens Werner, with you as new Creative Director, what does the “new J.Lindeberg” menswear collection looks like?

– For me the creative direction is clear: that J.Lindeberg, has roots in modern sports and fashion, it feels natural that we can combine these two areas in a different way than anyone else. We have the whole lifestyle across our collections, and my aim is to present it together, in a more distinct and cohesive way. The overall look is sporty, but sharp, elevated. Sport in color, layers, and graphics, but with a true fashion silhouette. Everything is designed within this context, and with certain themes and elements woven throughout, so that materials and collection categories can be easily mixed. With a new focus on this sport-fashion heritage, the collections will be more modern and forward in fashion again, while also more consolidated and clear.

How would you describe J.Lindeberg as a brand?

– It is sport-fashion, for a modern lifestyle – someone going from work to working out, traveling,
skiing, hiking, surfing, golfing, dinner parties and out dancing. Our DNA and heritage is about a sharp, confident, fresh and innovative look, something daring, colorful, a little bit off, and progressive. It’s about the mix, and the attitude. A pair of track pants, with a dress shirt, or sharp blazer. A pair of tailored trousers – pleated, high-waisted and long – with a sporty, colourful or graphic ski sweater, or sweatshirt. And the AW18 collection is the first time where all products and concepts blend into each other, and speak a similar design language. There are deeper elements within each of the ski, golf, active, collections, but all stemming from this one main point of view. The fashion collection is what encapsulates all of these things, to drive the overall brand image.

How would you describe the AW18 collection furthermore?

– Besides the sport-fashion heritage and iconic product categories that it includes, the main seasonal theme of AW18 is big mountain, retro ski. It’s about an ease of wear, in transitional pieces and layering, taking you from the slopes to après ski, to nights on the town and back to the office. The color palette draws from 70s ski, with faded poppy red and sunny blue, contrasted with classic sports racing red, pop blue, yellow, black, and white. Silhouettes range from exaggerated volume on top with skinny bottoms, to big volume on bottom, fitted on top. The overall look is sporty and sharp, elevated. It is sport in color, layers, and graphics, rather than in silhouette. It’s a co-branded ski competition chunky knit sweater, worn with a sharp, slim, tailored kick pant; to the one-piece alpine competition racing suit; to a bright-blue, oversized yet fully functional expedition parka, paired with relaxed-fit denim and logo t-shirt.

You’re debuting at the Copenhagen Fashion Week show schedule, why is it important for you to show there?

– I chose Copenhagen for this collection because I wanted to present something different for us, not only in the collection itself, but also in how and where we present it – to make a statement, and show something unexpected, that we are shifting into a new future direction. It’s the first time we have presented a mix of all categories, from sport to fashion, as one, as the full JL aesthetic and lifestyle. And Copenhagen, with its mix of people and energy, just felt right. That we did not show in Stockholm this time doesn’t mean at all that we won’t again in the near future.

What’re the most crucial things coming for J.Lindeberg in 2018?

– There is the broader angle, taking our new sport-fashion focus and establishing a clear voice– how we communicate, our social media, campaigns, films, photo shoots, collaborations with artists and ambassadors, and so on. Making people aware of it. And there is the more-narrow and specific focus angles of it – elevating product quality, building up new favorite commercial goods, making them the best. The AW18 show in Copenhagen is a big step, but only the first of many. The next is what content we create around it and how it expresses the image and product, in our own digital channels and externally. Another big one is the new shop concept which will launch in our flagship store at Biblioteksgatan in Stockholm, before rolling out into showrooms and shop in shops. Bringing our image and all of our concepts together also at points of sale.

Jens Werner.